Ask Ralph a Question
See the questions and answers below related to our Ask Ralph a Question feature.
Fill Out the Form
Answers to your questions
Q: Will I be able to pin my face fabric to the blackout lining while fabricating panels or any other custom treatments?
A: You should never pin the face fabric through a blackout lining while fabricating due to the fact that all blackouts have an acrylic backing and when you puncture the acrylic back you will leave a permanent pin hole where light could show through on the treatment after it has been installed.
Q: What lining would you recommend for a shower curtain with a light decorative fabric (almost Sheer)? -Heather
A: Hi Heather, I would use our, angel’s wide rail, 115″ wide, 70% polyester-30% Cotton, white or ivory. This will allow you to railroad the lining and have no seam lines behind your face fabric.
Q: Can I wash my draperies with your STYLE linings?
A: All draperies are recommended to be dry cleaned unless they are 100% polyester, then YOU CAN MACHINE WASH THEM WITH LUKE WARM WATER ON A GENTLE CYCLE WITH A VERY MILD DETERGENT SUCH AS, WOOL LITE.
Q: What are your best selling drapery linings?
A: Premiere sateen, premiere napped sateen, sterling sateen & sonata sateen
Q: What lining is used for lining sheer fabric window treatments?
A: The light weight, 70% polyester-30% cotton, 115″ wide, wide rail, both white and ivory are available
Q: What type of interlining would you suggest for fabricating with a silk face fabric?
A: This is totally up to the end user but if they do not suggest a specific interlining i would suggest a minimum of a heavy flannel or a heavy domette, for the best possible look, since silk is wimpy at best and needs all the help it can get.
Q: What style of blackout for a one way draw on a sliding glass door would you suggest?
A: The best possible blackout to use would be our silky blackout, 110″ wide. This is a light weight blackout and since you will be able to railroad the treatment you will not end up with any pin holes like you normally would with a, 54″ width blackout lining.
Q: What blackout lining is best for roman shades?
A: The bella notte, duet, is the best because it has a very nice soft suede for the face and it has a polyester batting that is bonded to the back side, which will help to absorb the thread and kill the pin holes on the hem and help to keep the pin holes away from the rings.
Q: Why do fire retardant linings have such a low luster finish?
A: Many fire retardant linings are chemically treated and when this liquid chemical is applied to the fabric most of the finish that was there on the fabric is normally washed away or distorted due to the fire retardant chemical.
Q: What does, 3-pass mean on your product listing in your blackout section?
A: When the mill creates a blackout lining, they have one layer of a black liquid suede that goes on the face fabric first, then there are two layers of white suede applied over the black layer, hence this gives you the term, 3-pass.
Q: Then what does the term, 2-pass mean in the blackout section?
A: This basically is the same thing but when the mill starts to construct the blackout, they use a heavy cloth then they apply two layers of white or ecru suede to achieve the light blocking properties that are needed for a blackout lining.
Q: Is there a light weight, soft blackout lining?
A: We now have the new Bella Notte Silky Blackout. This is a very soft and light weight blackout lining. It is 100% Polyester micro suede and is approximately 20% lighter in weight. This is a great blackout for those long panels and for the multi width panels. This lining will help keep the weight off the blackout lined window treatments while giving you a great hand and very soft draping quality.
Q: Can I wash my draperies with your linings?
A: All draperies are recommended to be dry cleaned unless they are 100% polyester and have a 100% drapery lining, then machine washing can be done a gentle cycle with warm water and a mild detergent.
Q: Should I use 100% cotton lining with a 100% cotton face fabric?
A: The industry traditional standard is to use 100% cotton lining, but you can use any lining that is to your liking or to the preference of your customer.
Q: Will a blended lining wrinkle?
A: Blended linings will not wrinkle as much as 100% cotton linings. They will wrinkle if they are abused and tossed about, which will cause them to need pressing.
Q: Why do blended linings pull back when I iron them?
A: When a blended lining has a polyester base, for its composition, you need to use a cool iron to press this lining. Polyester is a basic plastic and when you put heat to plastic it will melt or pull back and or puddle.
Q: What is the best lining to use?
A: The best lining to use is one that you like to work with and is going to make your customer happy.
Q: What interlining is best for silks?
A: The most commonly used is the heavy flannel, which adds body to the silk and gives it a true rich elegant look.
Q: Should I use natural or bleached white flannel on silks?
A: Designers will use bleached white flannel with light colored silks, this is in order not to have the face silk fabric discolor from the interior lighting, i.e., white silk will appear to have a creamy cast if you use the natural flannels.
Q: When should the original English bump cloth be used to interline a window treatment?
A: This product is normally used by designers on silk fabrics. This will create the European style look that many customers are after. This is truly the top of the line in elegance with silk window treatments.
Q: Why are fire retardant linings stiff and have no luster?
A: When the mill treats a fabric for fire retardency they cannot have a polished face because of the chemical and the chemical when dried does make the fabric a bit on the stiff side.
Q: Can I have a soft blackout lining?
A: Soft, is truly a contradiction of terms when you ask about blackouts. The best product for softness is the Roc- lon “budget” blackout, which has a lighter face fabric, which allows it to have a little more flexibility over the heavier face fabric.
Q: What can I use for blackout without using blackout on my silks?
A: The designer workrooms are using the following process: 1st layer is the face fabric, 2nd layer is an interlining, 3rd layer is ruby plus sateen, black, 4th layer is your regular lining. This works well in all reports back from our designer workrooms.
Q: What is your return policy
A: Angel’s distributing inc., has the following return policy: the buyer will be able to return a bolt of fabric when the bolt has not been cut and the buyer will pay for the shipping on the original shipment along with the call tag to pick up the product and the return shipping cost. There will be a restocking fee of $25.00/bolt of lining.
We do not want our customers to have flawed lining but we need to be given the opportunity to make a decision on a per occurrence basis as to the extent of the damage to the fabric. When the customer feels that the product is too bad to use we will bring it back and make a determination as to the situation and proceed to replace the lining or to return the unused portion to the customer if it is considered by the industry to be the norm and not the unusual.
All claims need to be made before five days after delivery. All product brought back will be fully examined to insure that the product is undamaged and is in resalable condition, if brought back for restocking. All flawed products will be brought back and run for yardage measurement and condition of the fabric.
There are many questions on lining that we could not even begin to put on this page. If you have a question that you would like answered about lining, please email us or call us at 1-800-450-9368.
Q: Suede Back, Dry Cleaning & Machine Washing Instructions
A: Proper cleaning techniques for the major mills coated, lining fabrics. Due to the fact that the Major Mills suede back producst are so different from other materials, special care should be exercised to protect them from potential harm.
Q: Ralph, what type of lining would be best for total blackout and has a nice fullness at the same time??
A: The nicest blackout is our Bella Notte Duet, it has a very soft micro suede face with a poly batting bonded to the face, it will give you the soft, full look along with providing complete light blocking properties.
P.S. Ralph…we just finished a drapery project using your Belle Notte Duet Blackout in Ivory and the customer was thrilled. Curtains were thick and gorgeous because of the lining. It was in her Master Bedroom on Nantucket and it was super insulated and completely dark. Thx!
Dry Clean Drapery Cycle
Many Curtains and draperies are unnecessarily dry cleaned, a regular soft brushing or careful vacuum cleaning will generally keep curtains looking bright and new for many seasons. When dry cleaning becomes necessary, be sure to use a professional dry cleaner and explain to them to use the drapery cycle. (coin operated machines can cause harm to the lining and to the face fabrics aa well. The following procedures are recommended by the International Fabricare Institute.
(Note: Check the manufacturers recommendation for proper care and cleaning of all fabrics.
Dry Cleaners, please us the Dry Cleaning Drapery Cycle
- Inspect draperies for labels that recommend special care and classify for cleaning methods
- Make sure that the draperies have been measured before cleaning. Make sure that the measurement information is passed tot he finisher.
- Remove all drapery hooks or pins. Inspect for all sharp objects attached to the draperies or in machine and remove.
- Run machine with, under weight load, do not over load.
- Give a short run without adding moisture:White Spirits, (Petroleum Solvents)… 10-15 Minutes, or Perchloreoethylene…5 Minutes, or Fluorocarbon…5 Minute
- Give normal extraction
- Tumble dry. Do not exceed 120 degrees fahrenheit, (50 degrees celsius), tumbler temperature
- Hang immediately, do not leave in hampter
CAUTION: When draperies are cabinet or air dried do not place the coated side over the bar. Place the fabric side over the bar. When the drapery is damp with solvent or water and is folded so that the coated side comes in contact with itself the fabric may self stick while drying and then shred and tear the foam when trying to separate it.
When dry, hang the draperies and allow to condition at room temperature for a few days. DO NOT!!! Iron the acrylic side of the lining and only use a light cool iron on the fabric side if necessary.
*** Hand Washing
For lining fabrics only-for face fabrics, check manufacturerers recommendation for washability. Only smaller curtains should be attempted to be washed by machine.
- Loosen tape and draw strings, if any, and remove all hooks.
- Follow curtain fabric care label recommendations where given.
- Use mild detergent or soap flakes, follow manufacturers recommendations.
- Ensure that the flakes or detergent are dissolved fully before immersing the curtains.
- Do not rub acrylic foam areas; Squeeze Gently.
- Use hand hot water
- Rinse thoroughly; Detergents left in curtains can cause severe deterioration of certain face fabrics.
- Do not use bleach in any form.
** After washing shake curtains from excess water. Do not ring out or squeeze. Hang curtains on a suitable line, from the heading, to drip dry full length in open width. When curtains need to be placed over a line, insure that the line is well padded to avoid a permanent crease and distribute the weight evenly.
When dry, re-hang the curtains and allow to condition at room temperature for a few days. Do not iron the acrylic side of the lining and only use a light cool iron on the fabric side. Check manufacturers recommendations for ironing of face fabrics.
WARNING: Shrinkage is more likely to occur if curtains are washed. Adjustment for shrinkage may be necessary by un-picking and re-tacking the hems.